What’s your favorite Italian cookbook?

Da Mario, FlorenceA not unpleasant side effect of my independent study research is reading Italian cookbooks.  I’ve analyzed the rhetoric of Marcella Hazan and her subtle insinuations of Northern superiority.  I’ve suffered through Giorgio Locatelli’s painfully stereotypical descriptions of Italian food culture.  I’ve read too much about Mario Batali, full stop.  Yet I have yet to find a cookbook introduction that doesn’t make me cry out in fascination.

Although I have a large personal cookbook collection, I don’t have any Italian-themed cookbooks.  So, I’m wondering: what’s your favorite Italian oriented cookbook?  And why do you like it?

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