Why go to Oslo? The coffee. While Norwegians have historically consumed vast quantities of the brew (nowadays the country drinks approximately 1.13 cups daily per capita), Norwegian coffee culture has only recently received international attention. Much of this attention is thanks to Tim Wendelboe. After being crowned World Barista champion in 2004 and World Tasting Champion in 2005, Wendelboe became known as Oslo’s prime coffee guy. His café in trendy Grünerløkka opened in 2007 to educate people about coffee and serve ethically sourced, carefully crafted drinks. It’s done well. The roastery won the Nordic Roaster Championship for three years in a row, from 2008 to 2010.
Fortunately, Oslo’s coffee scene doesn’t stop at Wendelboe. Cafes serving lightly roasted and expertly brewed coffee dot the city. From the commercial centre to residential neighbourhoods, a good cup is never far away in Oslo. And it’s not just because of the city’s small size. There are plenty of good cafés any city would be lucky to have. That’s why I aimed to explore the city’s coffee culture as best I could during my day-and-a-half stay. The caffeine sped up the adventure.
My first stop in Oslo was Tim Wendelboe. The café was celebrating their seventh anniversary and all the drinks were a celebratory 1 NOK. Customers streamed in, ordering drinks to go or finding a spot to sit and stay. Some chose coffees brewed on aeropress while others sipped on espresso-based drinks or a special shakerato. The menu, of which there is a single copy by the till, is written in both English and Norwegian. I ordered a cup of the Dumerso (from Ethiopia) and the Finca Tamana (the Colombian coffee which is arguably Wendelboe’s most well known). The flavour and presentation beg you to treat the experience with the ceremony of a tea service as opposed to the mindless gulp of a routine refuelling. The coffee is served in a metal pitcher on a wooden platter with some water on the side. Gently pour a little in the white cup, notice its translucent, reddish hue and drink the delicately pungent brew. I enjoyed the almost mouth-puckering lemon tang of Finca Tamana, but the aromatic fruit and floral notes of the Dumerso kept me going back for one more sip.
The same could be said for Oslo’s coffee culture: after one sip, you crave another. Avoid Kaffebrenneriet, Norway’s answer to Starbucks, and you’ll find Oslo’s coffee culture lives up to its reputation for sophisticated spaces and exotic light roasts. Should Kaffebrenneriet tempt you, walk a few blocks away and you’ll discover another coffee shop. If you’re lucky, you’ll find Fuglen, which has been in business since 1963. This cosy café is a stone’s throw away from the Nasjonalgalleriet and a perfect stop if you’re wearied from fighting the crowds in front of The Scream. Fuglen sources their beans from the city’s well-known roasteries, including: Supreme Roastworks, Kaffa, Solberg & Hansen and Tim Wendelboe. I ordered a Hunkute brewed on aeropress, which was silky and light with delightful cherry tones. Then it was time for another.
To work the caffeine out of my system, I sped to Mocca in the lush Frogner district (its sister café, Java in St. Hanshaugen, is also supposed to be good, but unfortunately I didn’t have time to visit). Whereas Fuglen has a snug, winter atmosphere, Mocca radiates Scandinavian summer light. Large windows, tall ceilings and a simple bar combine for an effortless space. My cortado — a shot of espresso with a splash of un-steamed milk poured— was simple harmony with rich and thick espresso and cold, creamy milk. Unlike some espressos that coat your mouth in chocolate and tobacco, the shot at Mocca was velvety and surprising; on one sip it tasted like berries, the next teased you with almond notes.
Drinking coffee in Oslo is exciting because it’s a highly anticipated that consistently thwarts and surmounts your expectations. Anticipation and normalcy merge in a way you didn’t expect, but are glad to have discovered. One coffee is floral and the next hits you with citrus. You have a milky and dull cortado at Kaffebrenneriet that rivals what you find at Starbucks for boredom. Throughout all the taste and space experiences, you get the sense that Oslo dwellers care about their coffee. Differences emerge, surely everyone doesn’t worship at the altar of Wendelboe, but it’s welcoming cafés, thoughtful food and attention to customer service that make drinking coffee in Oslo a worthy reason to plan a trip.
Tim Wendelboe, Grünersgate 1, Weekdays from 8:00 am – 6:00 pm, Weekends from 11:00 am – 5:00 pm
Fuglen, Universitetsgaten 2, Weekdays from 7:30 am – 7:00 pm, Weekends from 10 am – 7/6:00 pm
Mocca, Niels Jules Gate 70, Weekdays from 7:30 am – 5:00 pm, Weekends from 9/10:00 am – 5:00 pm
Kaffebrenneriet, locations throughout the city, hours vary by location